Three killed in Bangladesh factory fire

According to reports, the factory, owned by Uniworld Footwear Technology Limited and located in the Ashulia industrial area in Savar, lacked both safety measures and a permit to operate.

Christina Hajagos-Clausen, director of textiles and the garment industry at IndustriALL Global Union, says:

“This tragic loss of lives once again underscores the need to have binding agreement on workers’ safety. The International Accord, which covers ready-made garments, is a proven agreement to do this, but without a global binding agreement covering all product categories, factories and brands, workers in the textile, garment, leather and shoe sector continue to put their lives at risk.”

Local officials vowed to take legal action against the owner of the illegal factory and have promised financial compensation of BDT 25,000 (US$295.57) to the victims’ families.

“Promises of paying compensation to the families each time a worker is killed in a factory fire is not enough. The administration must ensure that penal action is taken against the factory owner for illegal operations,”

says Apoorva Kaiwar, IndustriALL South Asia regional secretary, signatory to the International Safety Accord and member of the RSC.

The International Accord for Health and Safety in the Textile and Garment Industry currently covers only clothing and textile manufacturers and not footwear. Uniworld Footwear is not a member of the Ready-made Garments Sustainability Council (RSC), a tripartite group of factory owners, brands and trade unions that oversees health and safety mechanisms in the sector in Bangladesh.

Photo: A garment worker who serves as factory-level fire safety facilitator is seen during his shift in a local clothing plant in Bangladesh

Credit: Marcel Crozet / ILO

Calling on Russia to stop immediately its aggression, invasion, and occupation of Ukraine

The Russian Federation’s use of force in Ukraine is in blatant violation of Article 2 of the Charter of the United Nations, which calls on Member States to refrain from the threat or use of force against the territorial integrity or political independence of any State.

Therefore, it is imperative that the Russian Federation cease its use of force against Ukraine, and withdraw all its military forces immediately, completely, and unconditionally from the Ukraine territory.

It is also unconscionable that the Russian Federation has raised its nuclear alert levels. IndustriALL Global Union and industriAll European Trade Union demand the immediate de-escalation of the current situation, and support the call from the international community to ensure the protection of the civilian population, and the unhindered access of humanitarian assistance.

As we mentioned in our first statement last week, prior to the invasion, once again IndustriALL Global Union and industriAll European Trade Union urge the relevant policy makers from Ukraine, the Russian Federation, the USA, the EU and international organisations to redouble their efforts to focus the process towards one of dialogue and political solutions to ensure a stable peaceful outcome for a united Ukraine, and to guarantee security for Europe and Ukraine’s neighbouring countries.

We express our full solidarity with workers and the people in Ukraine, and we call on affiliates, particularly in neighbouring countries, to give support by assisting the thousands of refugees fleeing the violence in Ukraine.

Undersigned:
Jörg Hoffmann, president of IndustriALL Global Trade Union

Michael Vassiliadis, president of industriAll European Trade Union

Atle Høie, general secretary of IndustriALL Global Trade Union

Luc Triangle, general secretary of industriAll European Trade Union


Continued repression against independent unions in Belarus

On 24 February, unidentified men broke into the office of Free Metalworkers' Union (SPM) in Minsk. Without presenting any documents, they searched the premises and seized documents, office equipment, computer hard drives, as well as personal laptops and mobile phones of union leaders and staff.

SPM deputy chairman Oleksandr Yevdokimchik was brutally detained and taken to an unknown destination when daring to ask why the union office was subject to a search by people in plain clothes. He should face a court hearing on 28 February.

Communications with SPM union lawyer Ihar Komlik was disrupted in the morning on 24 February. The following day, he was sentenced to 15 days of detention. 

On 27 February, the Belarusian Independent Trade Union (BITU) local chair at Naftan, Volha Brytsikava, was detained at a polling station, where a referendum on changes to the Belarusian constitution took place. She is now awaiting trial.

IndustriALL assistant general secretary Kemal Özkan says:

“We demand the immediate release of union leaders Oleksandr Yevdokimchik, Igor Komlik and Volha Brytsikava, and an end to continuing prosecution of independent union leaders and activists in Belarus.”

A new model for the textile and garment industry

The recently negotiated International Accord further validates a new supply chain model of industrial relations with binding rules and brand accountability for their impact on workers, rather than voluntary initiatives.
 
Kalpona Akter from Bangladeshi affiliate BGIWF said that the Accord has made “a phenomenal change in the country”. With 1,600 factories safer, 2,2 million workers can now work without fear.
 

Workers bore the brunt of the breakdown of the textile and garment supply chain, brought on by the effect of the Covid-19 pandemic on the sector’s unsustainable business model. Order cancellations led to wholesale closure of thousands of garment factories, with millions of workers laid off in countries with no social safety net. This has highlighted the precariousness of the sector’s business model and the urgent need to establish sustainable models of supply chain industrial relations.

“Covid brought a dire situation to Bangladesh, where we witnessed the precarious side of business model during lockdown. When workers are not paid, they starve as there are no social security and no unemployment benefits in the country,”

said Kalpona Akter.
 
IndustriALL and its affiliates have launched discussion on the change needed in the sector, including the urgent need for social protection for garment workers, which would include unemployment insurance, sick pay, social security and severance pay. The current model, where severance is the only form of social protection, led to wage theft during the pandemic.
 
Jason Judd from ILR School/Cornell University presented a research paper commissioned by IndustriALL, which looks at finding a welfare fund with legally binding mechanisms. Such a fund would need to be transnational in scope and include, among other things, the setting of compensation levels across many countries, dispute resolution processes and union access for workplace inspections to verify compliance.

“But there are obstacles to reaching a legally binding agreement for the sector,”

said Jason Judd.

“Who are the counterparties? Buyers and factory owners are not organized. Governments can require severance from a brand, but if there is no enforcement it will not be effective. And where is the leverage?”

Comparisons were drawn with the International Transport Federation (ITF), who every two years engage with maritime employers in the International Bargaining Forum, where a framework agreement is negotiated. Once the framework agreement has been negotiated, ITF affiliated unions begin local negotiations with companies in their country. These local negotiations result in national and sometimes company level IBF agreements. While the entitlements may vary slightly, all IBF agreements must be within the IBF framework agreed for the period.

“This is a unique set up and the only example of an international collective bargaining agreement. Employers pay into a fund dedicated to seafarers and an inspection scheme has been set up with the ITF inspectorate policing the agreements,”

said Ruwan Subasinghe, ITF legal director.

“And importantly, it contains significant remedies for workers faced by sudden changes in the industry.”

 Social protection affects political stability and thus core capital markets. Investors are increasingly focusing on labour rights in the supply chain and tend to value strong agreements between brands and unions.

“We envisage investors playing a key role in supply chain workers’ rights,”

said Elizabeth Umlas, IndustriALL senior advisor on capital strategies.

"Investors understand the need for robust and resilient supply chains, which are predicated in part on a healthy and stable workforce. Investors are also recognizing how human rights violations and poor working conditions in global supply chains reflect poor company practices."

Closing the discussion, IndustriALL garment and textile director Christina Hajagos-Clausen reiterated the call from IndustriALL and affiliates call on global brands and suppliers/manufacturers to put an end to wage theft and to negotiate a global agreement to strengthen the social safety net.  

Photo: A woman at work at a face mask and garment manufacturing factory, Harare, Zimbabwe.

Credit: KB Mpofu / ILO

Haiti: one dead, five injured in protests

On Monday the government announced increases for different economic activity.  In the garment sector, the 37% increase lifts wages from 500 to 685 gourdes (USD 6.50 a day). The amount is unacceptable to the coalition of unions that is pressing for better wages, including IndustriALL affiliate GOSTTRA. The unions say that even the 1,500 gourdes they have been demanding since January barely covers workers’ basic needs.
 
The cost of living is increasing every day in this small island economy where gangs often wield more power than the government.
 
Haitian garment workers produce clothing for major brands including Gildan, Underarmour, Hanesbrands, PVH, VFC, Target,  Kathmandu, Fanatics and New Era.
 
IndustriALL Global Union has expressed solidarity with Haitian garment workers. It has condemned the actions of the government, warning that it is putting at risk its garment export industry which is one of the main providers of jobs in the country.
 
Protests are set to continue this week.

Zimbabwe energy workers in stayaway over poverty wages

ZEWU says some workers earn less than US $100 per month.

“We are writing to notify you that our members no longer have the capacity to report for duty as expected. It is no secret that their incapacitation has been caused by the unbearable economic conditions they are faced with,”

wrote Martin Chikuni, the general secretary of the Zimbabwe Energy Worker Union (ZEWU), which is affiliated to IndustriALL Global Union.

The union says the “no collective industry mandate” excuse by the employer is a ruse to avoid increasing wages and is creating “disharmony” and doubt over whether the employer is committed to negotiations. Workers are becoming increasingly sceptical about the usefulness of attending bargaining meetings where no decisions are made to pay living wages.

In the letter dated 14 February, ZEWU states that workers are faced with price hikes of basic commodities, rentals, fuel, and school fees. Further, with the loss of confidence in the local currency, most providers of goods and services are asking for payment in US dollars which are mainly bought at higher rates on the parallel market. The exchange rate to the US dollar is 1:120 Zimbabwe dollars (ZWL) on the official market, and 1: 235 on the parallel market. But US dollars are more widely available in the streets than the banks.

The union says the wages are not keeping up with hyperinflation, which is over 60 per cent according to the Zimbabwe National Statistics Agency. Further, the Consumer Council of Zimbabwe has reported that a family of six required at least ZWL $73,000 (US $310) to meet the cost of living.

However, the reply to the union from ZESA, the country’s power utility, was an offer of a 30 per cent wage increase and increments in Covid-19 and transport allowances which the union has described as paltry. The union says the collective action will continue until their demands for living wages are met.

“We support ZEWU in its campaign for living wages and hope that the employer will engage in serious and meaningful wage negotiations and stop the delaying tactics when workers and their families are starving. Workers are suffering under the precarious working conditions of low wages that are currently prevailing in Zimbabwe,”

says Paule France Ndessomin, IndustriALL regional secretary for Sub Saharan Africa.

World Bank reports state that over 7.9 million Zimbabweans are extremely poor – meaning that at least one person is living on less than US $30 per month. The country’s population is estimated to be over 15 million. Poverty has been worsened by the price hikes of food and other basics while the Covid-19 pandemic has worsened the economic crisis.

Photo: A file image of a Zimbabwean energy worker.

Ukraine: dialogue and diplomacy are the only way forward

The current tensions primarily affect ordinary people, disrupting their lives on a daily basis and increasing uncertainty for their future. It is also destabilising the entire region, adding to the economic and social hardship.

IndustriALL Global Union and industriAll European Trade Union urge the relevant policy makers from Ukraine, the Russian Federation, the USA, the EU and international organisations to redouble their efforts to focus the process towards one of dialogue and political solutions to ensure a stable peaceful outcome for Ukraine, and to guarantee security for Europe and Ukraine’s neighbouring countries.

Diplomacy should prevail to solve the crisis. A military confrontation will have incommensurate humanitarian consequences and will only lead us further away from a long-term and sustainable solution.
We express solidarity with all trade unions in the region which have for too long been hostages of geopolitical conflicts. We also call for trade union solidarity across borders. Only peace and security can create the conditions for sustainable economic recovery, while securing an effective level of social justice and social protection for working people and their families.

Undersigned:
Jörg Hoffmann, president of IndustriALL Global Trade Union

Michael Vassiliadis, president of industriAll European Trade Union

Atle Høie, general secretary of IndustriALL Global Trade Union

Luc Triangle, general secretary of industriAll European Trade Union


Moroccan unions build foundation for social dialogue in textile and garment sector

The textile and garment sector is the primary industry in Morocco, employing about 200,000 people in the formal sector, and accounting for about a quarter of exports. The sector is growing as Morocco seeks to position itself as a fast fashion producer for the European market. Moroccan unions are using this momentum to build the foundations for social dialogue in the country.

The supply chain crisis caused by the pandemic has led European brands to question the current system of long and complex supply chains, with most garments currently sourced from a number of Asian countries. Brands are seeking to source production closer to the market. Tunisia and Turkey have already benefited from this, and sourcing is expanding in Morocco.

Representing employers, Fatima-Zohra Alaoui of the Moroccan Association of Textile and Apparel Industries (AMITH) said that Covid-19 had forced a fundamental rethink of the business model for the sector, and there was a new focus on sustainability: both from an environmental perspective, but also economically. It is essential to build a sustainable industry in the company.

Government representatives said that social dialogue is key – and that the primary responsibility lies with employers.

Union representatives stressed that collective bargaining agreements are the best way to ensure sustainable employment relations, and avoid incidents such as deaths which have happened in underground factories.

Ahmed Bahnis, national secretary of the Union marocaine du travail (UMT) federation said:

“We want to institutionalize social dialogue. Unfortunately, there is still a fight against social dialogue in the textile sector. It is necessary to mutually recognize the role of trade unions, which represent human capital, and aim for development of the sector and improvement of workers' conditions.”

Ahmed Hassoun, general secretary of IndustriALL’s Moroccan affiliate Syndicat National de Textile Habillements et Cuirs (SNTHC-CDT), said:

“We refuse to turn the dialogue into a mere consultation. The textile sector is characterized by fragility, and this was evident during the negative effects of the pandemic, especially in the informal sector. Through successful dialogue, we were recently able to sign the first company based collective agreement in the sector”

Ali Sarhani, representative  of the private sector employers’ association Confédération générale des entreprises du Maroc (CGEM), said:

“Covid-19 has harmed the sector and there are major problems that have hindered investments, but respect for the law is necessary for stability and avoiding problems with workers, the state and taxes.”

Assia Besaad, the head of Morocco OECD NCP presented the NCP and its role in Morocco as well as OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector.

Abdelmajid Matoual, IndustriALL vice president for the Middle East and North Africa (MENA), welcomed the participation on behalf of the Moroccan affiliates and said that the meeting was timely as it coincides with resumption of the nation social dialogue sessions which started that week between the government and the national union centres.

Ahmed Kamel, IndustriALL MENA regional secretary, said: 

“Today, social partners shared their initiatives and actions on mitigating the impact of the pandemic. Despite the difficulties, such initiatives and views have potentials in developing the social dialogue in the sector in Morocco in which we will continue to support and follow up with our Moroccan affiliates.”

Gender equality today for a sustainable tomorrow

Companies are failing to make the necessary changes for women to have the same opportunities as men. Continued gender-based job segregation in IndustriALL’s sectors, in particular in technology, is likely to drive increasing gender inequality (including wage inequality) in the future of work.

The gender pay gap reduces women’s capacity to secure an independent and decent income. Factors contributing to the gender pay gap include:

A Just Transition for workers in our sectors will never be achieved without gender equality. In December, IndustriALL Women's Committee identified and prioritised action to fight gender-based discrimination in our sectors, starting with the gender pay gap.

It is urgent for trade unions to step up action for the adoption and implementation of policies, at all levels, ensuring equal opportunities for employment for all workers, men and women, including in green and STEM industries, as well as for equal treatment and equal pay.

For International Women's Day this year, follow IndustriALL online for a discussion on the gender gap and equal pay for equal value.

And let us know what your union will do on 8 March! Please use the hashtags #ALLWomen and #PayEquityForALL

Peru ratifies ILO Convention 190

Trade unions in Peru played an important role in promoting the ratification of ILO Convention 190 on violence and harassment in the world of work.

Peru's National Federation of Textile Workers (FNTTP) and Federation of Workers in the Manufacturing and Allied Industries (FETRIMAP), both affiliated to IndustriALL Global Union, were  involved in the campaign for the ratification.

FNTTP secretary for the defence of labour rights, Gerardo Olórtegui, says:

"In Peru, workplace harassment is not only gender-related but also union-related. Harassment of unionised workers is manifested in the form of excessive workloads, strict control of their workplace through video surveillance, differential treatment when it comes to pay, with union members struggling with the legal collective bargaining procedure that can take months or years whilst employers readily grant generous incentives to non-unionised workers."

Violence and harassment in the world of work are an everyday reality for many workers and represent an obstacle to gender equality and decent work. IndustriALL Global Union has launched a campaign to combat gender-based violence and shape a world of work based on dignity and respect for all.